One of my favorite blogger/columnists is Eric Asimov of the New York Times. He has a weekly blog called The Pour, where he explores broad issues relating to the fruit of the vine. One of his recent blogs dealt with the premise of a new book, “The Wine Trials” by Robin Goldstein.

The introductory paragraph to Asimov’s April 11 blog reads: “In yet another anti-intellectual effort to take fancy-schmancy wine down a peg or two, a new book purports to demonstrate that price bears little relation to quality and that the experts don’t know what they are talking about. The evidence? Blind taste tests of 540 wines by 500 volunteer tasters.”

That blog and the comments it elicited got me thinking about how we all make choices regarding the wines we select for every day drinking and for special occasions. Certainly, we can all agree that quality wines that offer great value are worth seeking out. So how do we determine what is not only an acceptable wine, but one that is exceptional? Well, let me take a crack at it. Read the rest of this entry »

Each year about this time, I join a group of West Virginia wine lovers who are called upon to select the best wines produced by state wineries in seven different categories (e.g., dry red; semi-sweet white; dry white; dessert, etc.). This annual tasting gives me a pretty good indication and historical perspective on the quality of Mountain State wines since we’ve been judging the competition for about 15 years. I’m happy to report that West Virginia-made wine has improved steadily over the past decade. I’m also happy to report that the number of wineries has increased from just a few to 17 in the past ten years.

While many of these wines can be good to exceptional, wine makers in the state face very difficult growing conditions that force them to use vines that can limit their ability to make great wines. Why? Read the rest of this entry »

Inspiration is a wonderful thing! After attending a spectacular wine dinner at the Bridge Road Bistro recently, I was inspired by the culinary virtuosity of chef Paco Aceves to create my own plebeian version of gastronomic heaven. It’s a dish I’ll call “Doin the Spicy Chicken.”

If you’re old enough, you probably remember doing the “Funky Chicken.” While that dance required a few nimble moves, laying down steps for the Spicy Chicken is a lot easier, and today I’m going to tell you how. I’m also going to suggest a few wines that will not only tame that chicken, but also enhance the flavors of this nifty little dish. If you haven’t done so already, it is definitely time to dust off the old grill and get ready to barbeque some de-feathered edibles! Here’s how: Read the rest of this entry »

Photo (at right): Arneis, which is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy, is a crisp white with green apple flavors and a sprightly touch of fizz

A note to “Red Wine Nation:” White wines are good and getting better!

I feel the need to make this declarative statement because there is a growing sentiment among some wine drinkers (mostly those who are new to the fold) that white wine is an inferior product and, except for the occasional bottle of chardonnay, is not to be considered seriously.

Those of you who read my words on wine know that I will never tell you what you should drink. If you want to match that hunk of filet mignon with a jug of Vito’s Thunder Mountain Red, so be it. However, if you think Vito’s elixir has no peer, you might want to buy a bottle of witch hazel which is probably slightly better. The point is: if you think you’ve found wine Nirvana, you haven’t because there are always pleasant surprises to be discovered in the world of wine.

That’s why I get upset when someone claims to be a “red wine only” advocate. For instance, these folks are happy to slurp down a bottle of full-bodied, high alcohol, young California cabernet sauvignon (without food ) as a pre- dinner cocktail. They revel in their “trophy” wines and rationalize their overindulgence by proclaiming the healthful effects of drinking red wine (their credo: if a little bit of red wine is good for you, then a lot of it must be even better).

Health issues aside, if you’re limiting yourself to just red – or just white – or just cabernet… well, you’re missing out on one of the most important, enjoyable and enlightening aspects of wine appreciation: the exploration and discovery of new wines. Read the rest of this entry »

This is definitely the season to enjoy special wine dinners hosted by some of the best chefs in our state. I just returned from an excellent wine and food event at Canaan Valley Resort, where Chef Nemat Odeh worked his culinary magic. I’m happy to report that your next opportunity to sup and savor is on April 20, at Bridge Road Bistro in South Hills.

The Bistro is the culinary brain child of renowned chef Robert Wong, who seems to be on an evangelical mission to bring good food and wine to West Virginians in just about every hamlet and holler in this wild and wonderful state. (In addition to the Bistro, he has opened restaurants at Snowshoe, Glade Springs, Charleston, Beckley and Morgantown.)

The April 20 event will feature a specially prepared menu by Bistro chef Paco Aceves and the wines of Cinnabar Vineyards in California. Rob Crandall, representing Cinnabar, will provide commentary on the wines selected for the dinner. If you’re interested in attending, contact Amy Sue Gates at the Bistro at 720-3500 for pricing and reservations. Here is the menu with accompanying wines. Read the rest of this entry »

French wine map from this website. Click for more info.

I often poke fun at the French for their superior attitude when it comes to anything having to do with wine and other gastronomic treats. In fact, some of our Gallic friends seem to think the term connoisseur (which is a French word after all) should only be used to describe their fellow countrymen.

While these traits could be described as arrogance, I prefer to give the French the benefit of the doubt ( even though my sometimes guest on the WineBoy webcast — Pierre N’Cest Pas — seems to embody the snobby, overbearing French wine bore that we all love to hate. Check out the latest WineBoy (episode 26) and you’ll see what I mean.

But to be fair, we should acknowledge the tremendous contributions the French have made to wine. Their innovations in the vineyard and cellar for the past several hundred years have been the foundation and catalyst for the dynamic growth of the wine industry in the rest of the world. And their many world famous wines continue to command the greatest respect of wine lovers everywhere. Read the rest of this entry »

Remember when you thought Burgundy was a red wine that came in big green jugs? Watch WineBoy 26 and you’ll get the skinny on Burgundy (a place in France where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay rule) and the other distinct wine appellations in that country that some Americans love to hate — except when they order wine.

Brown will also tell you about the principal wines in each of those regions after which WineBoy nemesis, Pierre N’Cest Pas, will offer his scathing critique of his performance. Tune in and be both educated and entertained.

I’ve had the pleasure of sipping a lot of really good wines lately, some of which I’ve recommended on the WineBoy Webcast. So, as your ever- accommodating wineaux, here are some vinous goodies for your consideration:

2006 Falesco Vitiano ($14)
From the Italian state of Umbria, this blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, is a medium-bodied red with loads of bright cherry flavors and nice balancing acidity. Year in and year out Vitiano is one of my favorite value-priced Italian wines. It should pair well with roasted meat dishes or pasta dressed in a light tomato sauce.

2006 Rombauer Napa Valley Chardonnay ($30)
In recent years, I must admit to avoiding what I perceive to be “over-done and over-oaked” California chardonnay. It’s not that I don’t occasionally appreciate over-ripe, high alcohol chardonnay that has been aged in heavily toasted oak barrels. Well…. yes it is. And so when I put a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay to my lips recently I was expecting to dislike it. After all, it was from Napa and had been aged in oak for an extended period of time.

Surprise! It is a well-balanced chardonnay with — yes — a toasty oak component. Yet the wine is also full of ripe tropical fruit flavors that are balanced by excellent acidity. As a matter of fact, we drank this wine with pasta tossed in a sauce of scallops, arugula and pine nuts, and the combination was heavenly. This wine, produced from the cooler growing region of Carneros in southern Napa, has restored my faith in fuller-flavored chardonnay. Say hallelujah!

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Change is good. That’s all the more reason to check out the latest five-minute Webcast of “WineBoy,” where host John Brown recommends tasty alternatives to the same old red wines you’ve been sipping for, like, ever. Says Brown: “These purple lovelies will reinvigorate your palate and clue you in to the fact that there’s more to wine than pinot noir, cabernet and merlot.”

The estate of Château Cheval Blanc in St Emilion. Home of one of the greatest wines ever? From antique-wine.com.

Bordeaux is perhaps the most storied region in all of winedom. Perched in southwestern France and close to the Atlantic Ocean, this famous appellation produces wine that is the benchmark upon which all great red wine, particularly cabernet sauvignon, is measured.

In 1855, the wines of Bordeaux were classified according to quality by a ranking that still exists today. The best of these wines are called “Grand Crus” and are categorized into five classifications or “growths.” The greatest are called “First Growths” and they include Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Ch. Latour, Ch. Mouton Rothschild (which was added in 1973), Ch. Margaux and Ch. Haut Brion.

Two other wines, Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Petrus, were not rated in the 1855 classification, but are also considered First Growths. The thousands of Bordeaux wines not rated among the first five growths are called Crus Bourgeois, Crus Artisans, St. Emilion and Graves.

Bordeaux is a region that inspires great debate among wine lovers. Most recently, that discussion has focused on the stratospheric price of recent vintages, particularly those wines made in 2005. That vintage is considered great by wine critics around the world and, if you can afford them, the cream of the 2005 crop can range from several hundred to thousands of dollars a bottle.
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