
On a recent Monday evening while many of you were snuggled-up at home, probably staring into the abyss that is TV or Facebook, The Beers to You tasting panel was hard at work in an undisclosed (and unheated) location. Our mission was to try to make sense of this whole “grow your own” or “estate grown” trend that has influenced the seasonal craft-beer selections as of late.
Though the “Grown your Own” thing seems on the surface to be “Green” and sort of a “Slow foody” trend, we wanted to taste these beers for ourselves to see if the flavor matches up to the premium price they are commanding. For me, it all comes down to flavor… Beer will never be a “Green” product; the energy used to manufacture beer, from malting, mashing, boiling and chilling, makes beer production a huge beneficiary of the inventions and processes of the industrial revolution. You can thank brewing for refrigeration and pasteurization for instance and luckily so far, the brewing industry has been given a pass by environmental activists… Enough Said.
Both beers claim that the hops, Barley and water have been sourced, grown and processed on the grounds at or near the brewery and both breweries use“house yeast”. This is why the brewers say that these beers have their own “terroir” or the essence of their “Earth”. Winemakers have referred to terroir as a differentiating characteristic for centuries and in my opinion, terroir is more evident and effectual for grapes than it is for the ingredients in beer. I think claiming “terroir” in beer is a stretch, except maybe for the characteristics contributed by the local water supply, but almost every brewer these days, treats the water for the desired effects of flavor and mash efficiency. I don’t believe the characteristics of the local soil carry through in the barley and hops, especially after malting and isomerization (extraction of the hop oils in the kettle); it’s torturous path through the brewery unlike the simple grape that is crushed and pressed to make wine.
The first beer on the list is the Sierra-Nevada Chico Estate harvest ale, a 6.7%abv beer that pours with a medium body and nice soapy head. The beer is fairly clear for a beer that is so generously hopped. The aroma of fresh hops is very evident. All of us noted that the aroma was not a typical Pacific Northwest hop aroma; the citrus was there but there were some earthy and woody aromas that blended in. BTY panel member Charles Bockway noted that the grassy, fresh-hop aroma that was so evident in Sierra’s “wet Hopped” ale was not evident in this beer. The same hop flavors that were in the aroma carried through the beer all the way to a bitter but balanced finish. The malt flavors in this beer played a bigger role than with Sierra Nevada ales of the past. The entire panel agreed that the malt complexity (Bready, caramel and slightly sweet) was really good and made this beer very, very drinkable.
Other Panel Comments:
Alan Gore-Very Balanced and Drinkable…
Rob Absten- A bit sweet up front (Had characteristics of Bigfoot Barley-Wine)
Tim Lepley- The aroma was a bit “catty” but the overall beer was good
On to beer number two, Rogue Brewery’s Chatoe Rogue Dirtoir Black Lager. This beer pokes a bit of fun at the “Grow Your Own” concept by declaring that the beer reflects the “Dirtoir” of the growing area. This lager is extremely dark and pours with a creamy tan head. The beer appears to be very viscous and thick, in fact Alan Gore commented that it looked like motor oil. This 5.9% abv beer though, is surprisingly light to medium bodied but the dark beer actually coats the glass! One thing that has me scratching my head is that the ingredients list includes Carafa II dark malt, which is a patented process and a trade name of Weyermann malting in Bavaria, so this beer couldn’t be 100% “Chatoe” grown. The Carafa malt along with the chocolate malts used give this beer a distinct moch-coffee finish. This would be a very good beer to pair with dark chocolate desserts. The intense roasty flavors take their toll on the palate after a while, which leads us to think this is a one serving per night type of brew. Alan went as far as saying that he wouldn’t buy this beer and Tim and Rob both thought of burnt toast (With Rob Absten going as far as calling out “burnt Wonder-Bread”). I often find Rogue beers interesting studies, but many are “one-beer and I’m done” kind of beers.
Okay, so I have droned on and written a lot about a two-beer tasting, so what’s the verdict? I would say that these beers stand on their own flavor, regardless if they are “Chatoe” or “Estate” grown. I wouldn’t pay a premium on that fact alone. The Sierra Beer was especially expensive, I purchased the 24oz bottle at Whole Foods in Dublin, OH and it cost me nearly eleven bucks! It was a very good beer, but I would have to really think again about laying down that much dough for home-grown-liquid-bread…